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Williamson Tube Amplifier Modifications
The Williamson Amplifier Notes on Improving
the circuit DCB, Chimera Laboratories
The importance the Williamson Amplifier had on audio amplifier design
can be best judged by its popularity. Just about every audio amp manufacturer
built Williamson amplifiers. In most cases they copied the
circuit exactly, choosing the 6SN7, 6CG7/6FQ7 or 12AU7 for the voltage
amplifier, phase inverter and push-pull driver stage.
Today the amplifiers are still highly regarded and rightfully so. In fact
you can still buy kits and commercial amplifiers that are exact copies
of the original circuit. Its circuit(with simple modifications is even
used in Single Ended amplifiers.
Some audio enthusiasts have noticed that the amplifiers sound better when
they are connected to efficient speakers. In fact when they are connected
to less efficient speakers, two design flaws surface. At higher output
levels they exhibit high levels of distortion and instability. In 1961,
Talbot M. Wright published an insightful analysis of the circuit in Electronics
World, highlighting these two problems. Fortunately he also told us how
to fix them and his recommendations form the basis of this article.
When the modifications are implemented, the Williamson circuit
is capable of outstanding performance at any power level. It is also capable
of driving just about any push-pull pair of power tubes you care to employ.
In many respects, this timeless classic elegant circuit is
really hard to beat.
Before we get into the circuit itself, I would like to share an opinion
about tube selection. Of the three tubes commonly used the 12AU7s are
not as linear as the 6SN7 or 6CG7/6FQ7s. If your amplifier uses the 12AU7
tubes, you should consider converting to 6CG7s or 6FQ7s. The 12AU7 uses
a 9A Base and the 6CG7/6FQ7 uses a 9AJ Base. The only difference is the
connection of the filament voltage. In the 9A base one leg of the filament
voltage is connected to the number 4 and 5 lugs and the other leg is connected
to the number 9 lug. To convert to the 9AJ base, simply move the 4 and
5 leg to the number 4 lug and move the number nine leg to the number 5
lug. Vintage RCA 6CG7/6FQ7s are very good. EI in Yugoslavia was making
a nice sounding tube if you can still source it.
The reason that the stock Williamson circuit is higher than 2% at over
half rated power output is that the 6SN7, 6CG7 and 12AU7 Tubes are badly
under-biased. Fixing this just requires the change of a few resistor values
to bias the tubes properly. These changes produce more drive voltage and
the driver stage stays in Class A operation.
I sort of take a try one step at a time and listen to it approach to making
any changes. I make a change in one channel and compare the change to
the stock channel by listening in mono. This also catches any mistake
I made such as a bad solder joint or installing something to the wrong
terminal. I dont do that often any more but I like to hear the difference
each change makes.
1. Lets start at the input of the amplifier. Most Williamson
amplifiers have a series of grid resistors and a DC blocking capacitor
in the input circuit to the first tube stage. If you are concerned about
DC offset coming out of your preamplifier, leave them in. If you are interested
in better sound performance pull them out. Leave the 470K grid to ground
resistor and install a 330 ohm to 500 ohm grid resistor between the 470K
resistor and the input pin of the tube(lug 2 or 7). Keep the lead on the
tube base side as short as possible(1/8-1/4).
2. The bias resistor on the cathode of the first tube stage(lug 3 or 8),
is usually 470 ohms. This should be replaced with a 1000 ohm resistor(metal
film if you please, Roderstein is the best). This raises the bias voltage
to around 3 volts. It also changes the grid cathode bias on the next stage,
the phase inverter, but we can fix that by making the following changes.
These changes will reduce the supply voltage to the first stage and increase
the voltage to the phase inverter stage.
The average Williamson circuit uses a 15000 to 33000 ohm isolation resistor
to decouple the first stage from the 450 Volt power supply. This resistor
should be changed to around a 47000 ohm resistor. This will cut the current
through the first stage and your bias voltage will be around 2.5 volts.
The stock power supply decoupling resistor of 22000 ohms to the phase
converter stage should be reduced to 3900 ohms. This increases the current
through the phase inverter and raises its cathode bias. When all these
changes are made you should measure around 2.5 Volts at the cathode of
the first stage, and about 5.5 to 7 volt bias from the grid to cathode
voltage of the phase inverter. Due to you mains line voltage or some variations
in power supply voltage you may measure these exact voltages, but it should
be close enough to allow these two stages to bias each other correctly.
3. The push-pull driver stage usually has 47000 ohm plate load resistors
and the original cathode resistor is 560 ohms. This produces a bias of
slightly over 5 volts with about 175 volts on the plates, a very poor
operating point for these tubes. Some vintage amps will have higher resistance
values installed, since this design flaw was caught early on. You want
to use a resistor with a value of 1200 ohms or higher. The correct bias
is approximately 9 volts and there will be around 250 volts on the plates
of the tubes.
4. Since the value of the bias resistor on the first stage is doubled
you have significantly increased the global negative feedback of the amplifier.
To compensate you need to double the value of the feedback resistor to
reduce the feedback back to its original level. You may want to try increasing
the feedback resistor even more to reduce the feedback to a value that
sounds best to the speaker you have the amplifier connected to.
The net result of these last three changes is to almost double the drive
voltage available to the input grids of the output tubes. A 450 volt supply
you will get over 100 volts to each grid. Even with as little as a 350
volt supply you will still get about 80 volts of drive per grid. Now any
Williamson amplifier should not produce 1% distortion until it reaches
overload. If the drive voltages to the grids of the output tubes are balanced
the distortion should be well below 0.5%.
All of the above changes have cut distortion dramatically, but there are
still some other opportunities. The high frequency response of many Williamson
amplifiers can be improved. The RC network bypassing the plate load of
the first stage is not critical. The value that must be carefully selected
is the capacitor across(in parallel) with the feedback resistor. Usually
about 50pf to 250pf is found in this network. The only way to optimize
the value is to use an oscilloscope. Fortunately the low-frequency transient
response is easier to improve.
5. Most Williamson amplifiers(actually most tuber amplifiers) sound soft
when they try to reproduce high levels of bass information. This is due
to the poor decoupling of the B+ power supplies. In the Williamson amplifier.
The first tube stages power supply capacitance should be increased
from 20uF to at least 40uF to 60uF. The phase splitter stage capacitance
should be increased to 80uF to 100uF. The push pull driver stage capacitance
should be increased to 60uF to 80uF. Finally the capacitance to the center
tap of the output transformer should be increased to at least 100uF, better
yet 200uF. Do not increase the 20 uF capacitance value of the filter capacitor/s
between the rectifier tube and the choke. Doing so will cause premature
failure of the rectifier tube.
The stiffer and better isolated power supplies will not only improve transient
performance, but improve the stability of the amplifier. The amplifier
will handle difficult loads and high peak power requirements with ease.
The final changes to consider are the use and size of bias capacitors
on the first stage and output stage of the amplifier. The use of a cathode
bias capacitor on a bias resistor of a tube stage has been a misunderstood
and contentious subject. I must admit when I read Talbot Wrights
analysis on this, I was somewhat skeptical. I have always felt the only
way to find out whether anything works in Audio is to try it. It works!
I have taken the liberty to quote his analysis verbatim:
The capacitor bypassing the cathode resistor of the output stage(of
the Williamson amplifier) is somewhere between 20uF and 250uF. Use of
the 250uF capacitor bypasses the stage to around 6 cycles, that is, the
stage is flat to about 10 cycles. Low-pitched musical wave shapes contain
near-DC components and in order to handle these adequately you must have
the output stage bypassed to approximately 1/10th of the lowest frequency
you wish to reproduce.
If you want to have good transient response below 60 cycles, you have
to bypass the output stage more heavily than 250uF. Capacity of 500-600uF
will bypass the output stage to about 3 cycles and will give good transient
response to around 30 cycles.
6. Well my listening evaluations in my opinion have proved him right.
A capacitance value of 660uF to 820uF provides superb performance. Be
careful not to go overboard using large bypass values may lead to instability
and instead of an amplifier you have an oscillator your loudspeakers will
not appreciate.
7. Finally, I recommend you install a bypass capacitor on the cathode
of the first stage tube. In fact, I have found you can voice the amplifier
to work best in your system(after all the above modifications) by selecting
the right capacitance value of this bypass capacitor. It should be somewhere
between 100uF and 470uF.
You should use good Audio Grade bypass capacitors on the output
stage and the first tube stage. I recommend the Nichicon Muses or the
Elna Cerafines or Silmics. Sanyo also has some very good sounding capacitors(solid
types). I have not had much personal luck with the Black Gates. I preferred
the sound of the other types, but if your ears tell you they are superior,
by all means use them.
Certainly you can also consider better connectors, capacitors, resistors
and hook-up wire. I like the Rel-Cap tinfoil and polystyrenes for signal
capacitors. Continuous Cast copper for hook-up wire and copper content
solder. For resistors, I use the Mills Wire Wounds for power supply and
high wattage bias resistors, 2 Watt carbon film for plate resistors and
Roderstein 1 and 2 Watt resistors for everything else.
Once you are done with the changes, you will find you have an amplifier
that will do a wonderful job of reproducing music. One that will compare
favorably with any push-pull design tube design, either vintage or current
high end products. ~ Dennis Boyle
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